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Anyone have a good way to heatshield in cases?

They got me doing deep balancing on all the problem walmarts in my area. Inevitably I find a txv that won't take to adjusting. Do you all have any good tips for heat shielding the wires and condensate pan when replacing a txv? Fuckin' hussman runs the wires right under the damn txv on a lot of these cases. Or the damn kysor cases with the plastic liners that I inevitably melt. I had some success with using one of those fiberglass blankets and them putting sheet metal over that, but I wonder if anyone has a better idea or product that I'm not aware of.

submitted by /u/Hrrrrnnngggg
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Posted in Uncategorized

Advice needed for leaking AC

I live in Western Canada and have a 1.5 ton AC unit. It was installed 3 years ago. It now wont cool and the coil was freezing up at the end of last season. I suspect leaking refrigerant. How long would a leak test take on something like this? Took a test wand to every part of the system but not one peep was made. Is this because there is eff all for refrigerant left to leak out? My next question is, should I try to get a tech out and just refill for now because we have a heat wave incoming this week and worry about the leak later? Thanks guys if anyone is able to inform me.

submitted by /u/Itchy1Grip
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Posted in Uncategorized

Commercial Coolers/cases

As the title says, this is about commercial refrigeration, such as meat/deli/produce cases and such.

My question is, how much do the newer meat/dairy/produce fridges/coolers/cases REALLY save? is there any link or table of data that shows the difference in a table?

And how many years can I go back in in terms of the model without sacrificing too much efficiency where it is not worth the money anymore?

I was looking at some NS39VFL and NS39VJL cases and they are pretty pricey, even refurbished ones.

If anyone has any information it'll be much appreciated.

Thank you!

submitted by /u/Two-Living
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Today in: “On Call Weekend Woes”

We received a call to one of my supermarkets, a fairly generic “Host Comm Error,” meaning something was wrong with the Danfoss rack controller. No big deal, right?

Not so. I walk up to a dead silent rack house, the stuff of my nightmares. Rack A, low temp, and Rack B, medium temp, stone cold dead. The Danfoss controller is dead. I assumed that a fuse was blown, breaker tripped, killed the controller, turned the racks off? No big deal, right?

Not so. I trace the wires out and behold, it’s drawn from Rack B power, not an independent circuit (as it should be). I check the 200 amp breakers for the racks. Rack A, tripped. Strange, since it’s not the one that powers the controller. I reset it. Check the voltage, 480 volts across all legs. Fantastic. I check Rack B. I hear sizzling. I stand back, alarmed, but check voltage. 480 from leg 2 to leg 3, 480 from leg 1 to leg 2, 50 volts from leg 1 to leg 3.

Shit. Ended up cutting up an extension cord to plug the controller in, get Rack A running. Call the electricians, pull the panel apart, one leg of the Rack B breaker is burnt and melted. The boss shows up, and it’s not looking good for that new breaker. We order a generator to run the rack, as a precaution. Two refrigeration mechanics manually running the racks, two electricians trying to find a 200 amp breaker, a generator mechanic, a separate electrician to wire in the generator, managers in and out constantly, reefers rolling in.

Finally found a 150 amp breaker that would serve temporarily. Get the racks back up and running. 8 hours later.

To add insult to injury, this same store had another catastrophic failure just a week ago. Rack B discharge transducer failed, read 0psi. The condenser shut off entirely, and the controller ran the compressors flat out. The old rack, which has been through several contractors, had all of high pressure controls fail, and so the compressors ran and ran and ran. One transducer, and 700 pounds of gas later, that day was done.

So, on call mechanics, how was your weekend?

submitted by /u/explorerX
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Looking for advice on brand new fridge

Help with Warm Freezer

We just bought a new Cafe ENERGY STAR 27.8 Cu. Ft. Smart 4-Door French-Door Refrigerator that was delivered 3 days ago. The bottom “door” (more like drawer”) is the freezer. We think it must have been left open for a day (at least) because the food inside had a bit of frost on it and was starting to or completely defrosting. Though to be fair we’re not sure it ever got up to freezing cause we didn’t open the freezer since installation. We tossed the food, made sure all doors were shut, and left it for 12 hours hoping it would get back down to 0 – no dice. I put an eye mask in there to test when/if it got back to freezing point but here we are 12 hours later and it’s not freezing. The fridge seems to be working just fine. Any ideas on what to do?

submitted by /u/BeaReasonable
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