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Brain Teaser

Got a call out last night to a walk-in freezer. Went to check it out and noticed the condenser wasn't running. Checked pressures and found it was off on low pressure control. Checked thermostat and it was opening and closing the solenoid at the matched temp on my thermometer. I spoke to the manager and they wanted me to add refrigerant for over the weekend and come back and do a leak test. Added 1lb of 404a and unit sprung to life again but I noticed that when I stopped adding refrigerant the compressor would pump down. there is absolutely no hissing in the evaporator whatsoever. I'm stuck.

other things i've checked for:

There is no frosting anywhere to show
The solenoid is getting 208v and clicking up and down (maybe piston is broken?)
Checked solenoid with solenoid magnet and still hear clicking

things i've thought about:

clogged filter drier, like 100%?
slammed shut txv?
Gremlins?

submitted by /u/shadeddemise
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Head pressure control valve question

Full disclosure, I'm a first year apprentice.

I went to a call for a walk-in freezer running warm today, hop up on the roof, condenser fan motor is seized and the system is short cycling on high head – easy. I call a supply house and go grab a new motor, blade and capacitor before they close for the long weekend. Get everything changed out, turn the system back on and it runs for about 3 seconds and turns off. I start to panic thinking I missed something, find it's off on low pressure cut off and gauge up to verify pressure. Low pressure control is working, cutting out right where it's supposed to – go downstairs to make sure the system isn't in defrost, not in defrost, back to the roof. I noticed the system is cycling faster, decide to watch it for a minute – eventually it stops cycling and is just running with low suction that eventually builds to regular pressure.

My question is if a system has been off for a couple hours and the ambient conditions are such that the headmaster would be flooding the condenser, does it take a little for the system to build up enough pressure in the receiver to keep from cutting out on low pressure?

There was no fan cycling or any other low ambient controls if that's a factor.

submitted by /u/CognitiveDissident7
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Knocking sound when compressor is on?

Hey r/refrigeration!

I'm hearing this constant knocking sound whenever the compressor is on. It has gotten louder over the past week or so. It seems to be coming from either the thermostat panel or the back of the fridge. I've investigated behind the various panels in the fridge, but can't identify a source.

Does anyone here know what might be causing this? Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/rsh8yq/video/kt8wh9wy0s881/player

submitted by /u/sonataFarm
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Reach in Produce Cooler Freezing product

Relatively new to the Refrigeration side of things, so I’m curious to what you’re guys’ stance is on this.

My company takes care of one chain of grocery stores that utilize a “tunnel system”, not sure how common that is, but basically each system is independent of the other. All the individual condensers are in a tunnel, and most of them are ran off of a thermostat located at the Evap.

Back to the title, we have issues sometimes of the stores noting that produce is freezing. I’m curious to see the order you would address this problem (thermostat, EPR valve, TXV adjustment). Thanks in advance, this community is a big help to someone new to this side!

submitted by /u/SpaceCadet19xx
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Replacement Compressor Question

I have the opportunity to buy an older McCall two door refrigerator that the seller claims needs a new compressor. I know jack-all-nothing about refrigerators, but I thought that if a replacement compressor was cheap enough it would be worth it to buy and fix for my side-job bbq business.

I tried searching for a part for it, but haven't had any luck. I assuming it is because it is an older model. Is there anyone that is able to help me out with finding the correct part? Below is the pic of the tag the seller sent me.

https://imgur.com/a/YRI8wCb

submitted by /u/Gracinx
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